On Day 2 of our 12-day rafting trip from Pipe Creek at river mile 89 to Pearce Ferry at river mile 280, we woke up early to get a head start on a long day. We had to pull the hoop nets that were set out the night before, drive about 30 miles on the river, and set the hoop nets early enough so that the scientists had time to rest before a long night on the river electrofishing.
We had a day of big water on the river, consisting of Hermit and the Gems (Crystal, Tuna Creek, Agate, Sapphire, Turquoise, Ruby and Serpentine). So the morning was wet and crazy, and we then reached a long stretch of flat water. Two of the scientists on our trip, Pilar and Kristy, decided it was nap time, since there would be nothing but smooth sailing for the rest of the day.
There was no way I'd fall asleep. I was in the middle of the Grand Canyon, only for the second time. I formulated countless questions as I looked around at the rock layers, plants, river currents and eventually grew tired of leaving my questions unanswered, since the scientists were both asleep. I stood up, moved to the back of the boat and sat down in the motor well next to Chango, one of the four boatmen on the trip.
This was the first real conversation I had with Chango, and he read me like a book.
"Have a lot of questions and no one to answer them?"
"You can't nap out here now, there's too much to see!"
Chango had a long full beard. Shoulder-length, curly hair, painted toenails, and a beer belly. He had been running Grand Canyon trips for about ten years, mostly commercial, he was just starting his journey with science trips. The more I learned about him, the more I realized we're much alike—both our faults, and strengths.
So I spent a lot of our driving time in the motor well with Chango, picking his brain, listening to his philosophical quotes, learning his outlook on life, asking countless questions about the Canyon. And surprisingly, I don't think he ever got sick of my company.
We made camp on river left, at an unknown river mile. I helped cook and clean and took a nap next to a really cool exposure of the tapeats sandstone. The sunset lit up a cliff of redwall limestone that was perfectly framed by the Tapeats, and was even reflected into an eddy next to our camp. I sat down on the beach after I finished with my camera, and thought about what Chango had told me on the boat.
Two points had really stuck with me from our first conversation... First, there is a red, round figure on top of a cliff on one of the last corners before Crystal Rapid. Grand Canyon boatmen call it the Crystal Ball and use it as a signal that the daunting Class IX rapid is around the corner.
Second, Chango has three rules for life that he's learned while spending time in the Canyon:
- Always do your best.
- Be impeccable with your work.
- Never take things too personally.
I can't count how many times I've thought of his rules while I was still in the Canyon, and since the day I stepped out of it.