I looked up and saw Yusuf standing at the top of the pass, nearly 80 feet above me. Between us, was a steep gully comprised of the loosest scree I have ever set foot on in the mountains. He shouted down to me, “It’s pretty loose Halam, try going around to the other side of the cliffs.”
I slowly moved around the base of the cliffs and saw Yusuf from the other side. I began moving up the pass. But with each step up, I felt like the rocks would give way and I’d begin sliding down the steep slope. Sometimes, I did slide—but I was somehow able to hold my balance and not fall down the entire mountain. I froze up. Tears started streaming down my face as I debated with Yusuf whether or not I could make it up to the top of the pass. My limbs were shaking with every step. I have never been more terrified in the mountains.
One of my good friends from college, Yusuf, has been living in Telluride, Colorado and working remotely for over a year now. He’s always loved the mountains that reside there, the San Juan mountain range, so in a way, Covid has helped him really live his dream. He’s constantly climbing mountains—14ers, 13ers, he loves the summits and his evolving goal of climbing the hundreds of peaks in Colorado. It’s an addiction for him.
Yusuf finally convinced me to visit him in Telluride in May. I drove 6.5 hours from Evergreen, only to find a few days of bad weather in the San Juans. It rained for almost three days straight, the entire time I had planned to visit. But we managed. We hiked to countless waterfalls within the box canyon that Telluride sits in, all the while Yusuf played tour-guide and showed me around his little mountain town. Even though I hardly saw any mountains, I was hooked.
It took less than a month for me to return for another visit. I am headed to California for all of July, so I figured I’d stop by and go on a few adventures with Yusuf before heading further west. And this time, I was truly awed by the San Juans.
We started off by climbing Boskoff Peak (13,123’), which is just South of Wilson Peak, Mt. Wilson, and El Diente, all 14ers which are some of the most Southern peaks in Colorado. We were on trail for most of the day, except for the ridge up to the summit. Seeing the massive summit block of El Diente and the ridge-line connected to Mt. Wilson was insane. The San Juans are exceptionally rugged—we can thank the work glaciers do for that.
The next day, Yusuf and I hiked in to the Blue Lakes Basin, which sits at the base of Mt. Sneffels, another 14er. The trail was inconsistent and clearly old, but interesting nevertheless. As we approached Lower Blue Lake, our jaws immediately dropped. And they remained dropped for the rest of the hike as we climbed up to the upper lakes. The views were breathtaking. The lakes all sparkled a cloudy, turquoise hue, which I later learned is due to a phenomenon called “glacial milk”. As glaciers move around in their basins, they grind up the material that sits underneath them into a fine powder, which makes its way into streams and lakes. This super fine sediment, or “milk”, sits suspended in lakes and reflects sunlight in a weird way, causing the lake water to appear a milky turquoise blue.
On our third day together, we summited Hayden Mountain South (13,206’), which is about halfway between Ouray and Silverton along the Million Dollar Highway. The weather was perfect, the trail was steep but defined, and the ridge and views were epic. We stood on the summit with 360-degree views of the San Juans. To the North—Wetterhorn and Uncompahgre, to the East—the Red Mountains, to the South—the Weminuche Wilderness and the Chicago Basin peaks, and to the West— the Mt. Sneffels Wilderness. I’ve never seen such epic views.
On my fourth day in Telluride, I had to do a bit of work in the morning. Yusuf and I decided to do a sunset hike to the top of a pass that would give us great views of the Island and Ice Lake Basins, which are classic San Juan lakes. The forecast looked great, so we headed out after I finished up my work and got off a Zoom call.
We drove through the small town of Ophir, and began hiking around 3pm. We made our way into a huge basin. We couldn’t find a trail, so we relied on Yusuf’s inReach to show us the way to the pass. I usually like hiking off trail, but I was instantly reminded of the luxury of a defined path as Yusuf led me through a section of thick willows on a steep slope next to a waterfall. He had sped off without me and left me to fend for myself in the bushes. Once through the brutal section of bushwack, I was beat. I had a bit of a headache going and was worried that our off-trail adventure would continue way past the sunset, even though it wouldn’t be totally dark until after 9pm.
Yusuf wasn’t worried, so I somewhat hesitantly followed him up to the base of the pass. I’ve climbed steep slopes before in the mountains. I’ve also climbed loose slopes before. However, as I stood at the foot of the brunt of the pass, with over 100 feet of extremely steep and extremely loose terrain in front of me, I was a bit unnerved. “Oh boy, this will be interesting,” I thought to myself as I began up the face after Yusuf, who was already about halfway up.
The first half of the pass wasn’t anything too crazy. A very faint trail made up of scree switchbacked its way up. But eventually, the trail faded and I stood at the base of a huge outcrop of cliffs. To my left was a super loose section of choss that pitched straight up to the top of the pass. It was clear that people had hiked up and down this face, but it seemed to be nearly impossible to find the best way through the loose rock. To my right was Yusuf, scrambling up a steep and even more loose gully. As I stood at the base of the cliffs, Yusuf called down to me, “do NOT enter the gully until I reach the top and give you the all clear!” A few rocks tumbled down, knocked loose by Yusuf’s climbing. I was instantly nervous.
A few minutes later, Yusuf looked down at me from the top of the pass. “The view is incredible, like seeing some of our favorite places in Utah for the first time!” To me, that meant I would likely tear up at the sight of the lakes and the peaks beyond. I was so excited for that view. He then shouted, “but the gully is really sketchy!!!”
We continued to yell at each other over the deafening wind and tried to come up with a game plan for how I would best get up to the top. Yusuf has spent a lot of time in steep, loose terrain like this. So he’s used to it. I, however, am not. We agreed it would be best for me to avoid the gully and try heading up the section to the left of the cliffs.
A few minutes later, I found myself stuck on a small rock, which seemed to be the only rock on the entire face of that mountain that didn’t slide out from underneath me as I put my weight on it. I really wanted to see those lakes. So I kept looking around, trying to find a route through the scree. I felt totally helpless and stranded. Yusuf was only 80 feet above me, but I could barely hear him over the wind. Of all the mountains I have summited, of all the scrambling I have done, of all the steep runs I’ve skied—I've never felt like I had pushed myself totally outside my comfort zone. Until this moment. From where I was standing, there was no clear or easy path to the top. Tears started streaming down my face. It was getting late. I was shaking, I felt terrified to move, I was frozen on this extremely steep and extremely loose face. All I wanted was to be back down on the grassy tundra below us, or to be lying in my bed in Evergreen, or to be fly fishing with my Dad in our favorite spot in Colorado. I wanted to be off that damn mountain.
Yusuf kept calling down to me and eventually we decided that I should not attempt to continue climbing. He coached me back to safety at the base of the cliffs and carefully made his way down the steep gully to join me, knocking hundreds of rocks loose and sending them flying down next to me as he descended. I gathered my emotions and we hiked down together to the base of the pass. We stopped, Yusuf gave me a big hug and apologized for dragging me up there. We emptied the gravel from our shoes, I ate an entire veggie burger in approximately 2 minutes, and we discussed what had happened.
“It’s not abnormal for people to freeze on intense terrain like that,” Yusuf explained to me. Baby steps are important and pushing our comfort zones from within ourselves is absolutely a good thing. But jumping into something, or pushing our comfort zones from outside ourselves is not. We both agreed that I simply wasn’t ready for something that extreme, especially when I wasn’t feeling 100% due to a headache (and hunger for a veggie burger, and probably some mild exhaustion from the past few days of adventuring). I could absolutely do it physically, but doing it mentally proved to be a challenge.
We continued down into the basin and found a semi-defined trail. The sunset began casting incredible light into the basin, illuminating the bright reds, oranges, and yellows of the jagged peaks. I paused several times during our hike down and admired the scenery. I was back to my normal self—grateful to be in the wilderness. But a feeling that I haven’t felt in the mountains in quite some time washed over me, humility.
I was humbled by the steepness and looseness of the pass. I was humbled by the great and vast ruggedness of the mountains. I was humbled by the San Juans and our feeling of remoteness. I was humbled by the lesson I had learned about pushing my limits and what it feels like to reach those limits. I bet most people go through life never experiencing something like that. Even though it was truly terrifying, I was grateful for finding mine.
I left the San Juans this morning with a new respect for the wilderness, and particularly for the mountains. What can these great peaks and endless views teach us? What do they whisper to us as the wind whips around their spires and through our hair? What lessons can we learn from their majesty, from their relentlessness, and from their intensity?
As I gazed out into the basin lit up with sunset colors and followed Yusuf down the trail to the car, I felt an enormous gratitude. The mountains had pushed me and I had pushed me. I found a new pocket of my personality that I had never known before—true fear. It was so powerful and so beautiful. Even though I didn’t get to the top of the pass and didn’t get to see those lakes, I am eternally grateful for the mountains and for their capability to lead me to new places within.