Capitol Reef is the underrated National Park of Utah. Spanning almost 400 square miles, it receives only about one million visitors per year. It's counterparts— Arches National Park, is visited by over 1.5 million visitors per year and is about a third of the size. Zion is seen by over 4 million people yearly.
Part of the "Big Five" of the National Parks in Utah, Capitol Reef is often overlooked. It contains plenty of arches, slot canyons and desert vistas, isn't too far off the interstate and is part of the International Dark Sky Association.
I had never been there before until a week ago, and now I'm proud to say it's one of my favorite National Parks in Utah.
A group of six other CU Hiking Club members and I embarked on a journey to Capitol Reef for our Thanksgiving Break. We were originally planning on spending the week in the Grand Canyon, but decided against the obscene price tags that came with the backcountry permits and decided on the Reef instead. They love backpackers at Capitol Reef. Campgrounds and permits are free, with almost no limitations, and the rangers are abnormally friendly in the tiny Visitor's Center.
We decided to spend time in the lower third of the park, or the Waterpocket Fold District that was named by my hero— John Wesley Powell. Our route would consist of a shuttle, and a somewhat out-and-back and somewhat loop, that wound through slot canyons, went by a 1.5 mile side trip to a hidden sandstone bridge and left us perfect views of the night sky. We didn't see another soul for five days.
My favorite part of our big adventure was the Halls Creek Narrows at the most southern part of our route. We were only about 15 miles north of Lake Powell, but were deep in canyon country. It is hardly seen by anyone. This section of the park was carved out by a small stream and is filled with towering sandstone walls and lush springs.
We travelled through the Narrows in our water shoes for about three miles and stood in awe at the canyon after each bend in the stream. The water was freezing! My feet were sore after several days of backpacking, but the ice water didn't seem to help too much. After a while, my toes were completley numb, I felt like I was walking with ice blocks for feet. There was one point where our trail went through a very narrow section the canyon, probably only six feet across, and the stream rose to my upper thighs.
We waded through the river, laughing at each other as we slipped in the mud, and sat amazed at the high canyon walls and the shadows that the sinking sun cast. Eventually, we reached the end of the canyon and made camp on a rock ledge, leaving us a perfect view for sunset, the Milky Way, and the sunrise.